Ammonia-Free Hair Dye vs. Ammonia Hair Color

Ammonia-free hair dye swaps out ammonia for a different alkalizing ingredient called MEA (monoethanolamine), which opens the hair cuticle the same way ammonia does - just without the sharp chemical smell. Ammonia-free permanent hair color delivers the same results as traditional ammonia-based color: full gray coverage, accurate tone development, and permanent longevity that grows out rather than washing out. 

Here at Madison Reed, it is always our goal to give you the best, most accurate information on hair color + care, which is why we are working with a research and clinical board-certified dermatologist, Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos, MD. Recently, we asked Dr. Draelos how to care for colored hair from a scientific standpoint. Below, Dr. Draelos breaks down exactly how that works.

Coloring your hair with permanent hair dye involves a complex chemical reaction that occurs inside the hair. This reaction requires a variety of chemicals to achieve the final color result. One chemical that has been used in permanent hair color for many years is ammonia. It is used in hair coloring to open the outer covering of the hair shaft (known as the cuticle), allowing the hair color dyes to penetrate into the inner portion of the hair shaft (the cortex) where the color remains. Unfortunately, ammonia has a very pungent smell, accounting for the bad odor of most permanent hair color.

A newer ingredient, chemically known as monoethanolamine, or MEA, can be used as a replacement for ammonia in permanent hair color. It does not have the odor of ammonia and does not cause eye or respiratory irritation as readily as ammonia.  Rather, MEA functions as an alkaline agent, just like ammonia, to lift up the protective cuticle on the outside of the hair shaft and allow the permanent dye to enter the hair shaft and work. Because it is a large molecule, MEA cannot penetrate the scalp or reach the follicle from which the hair grows.

MEA is a more expensive ingredient than ammonia and is therefore found in higher end, higher quality hair color products. Remember that any hair dye (whether formulated with ammonia or with MEA) permanently alters the hair shaft. Keep the permanently dyed hair in optimal shape to avoid hair breakage. This includes avoiding pulling or stretching color-treated hair, especially when wet, and avoiding coloring on top of previously colored hair. 

- Dr. Draelos, MD, board-certified dermatologist

Next, let’s look at how ammonia and ammonia-free formulas actually compare, plus the ammonia-free Madison Reed products.

Ammonia vs. Ammonia-Free Hair Dye: What's the Difference?

The two ingredients do the same job inside the hair shaft, but they behave very differently everywhere else. Here's how they compare:

 

Is Ammonia-Free Permanent Hair Color as Effective as Traditional Hair Dye?

Yes. Ammonia-free permanent hair color delivers the same results as traditional ammonia-based color. As Dr. Draelos explains above, MEA lifts the cuticle and lets dye penetrate the cortex the same way ammonia does. That means full opaque gray coverage, accurate tone development, and rich, vibrant permanent color that grows out rather than washing out. "Ammonia-free" describes one ingredient swap, not a weaker formula.

What ammonia-free changes is the coloring experience, not the outcome: less unpleasant odor, less risk of eye irritation, and (per Dr. Draelos) no penetration into the scalp or hair follicle itself, since the MEA molecule is too large to reach it. Coverage, longevity, and shade match are the same as a traditional formula.

At Madison Reed, every hair color formula is ammonia-free. That includes our permanent Radiant Hair Color and Root Perfection root touch-up as well as our demi-permanent ColorWonder. Each uses MEA in place of ammonia. What differs between the formulas is intended longevity, not the ammonia-free standard.

Shop Ammonia-Free Hair Color

All Madison Reed Hair Color follows our Smart 8-Free formula, which means formulated without: ammonia, parabens, resorcinol, PPD, phthalates, gluten, SLS, and titanium dioxide. Our hair color formulas are also infused with keratin, argan oil, and ginseng root extract for added shine, strength, and softness.

 

Frequently Asked Questions

Is ammonia-free hair color as effective as traditional hair dye?

Yes. Ammonia-free hair color, whether permanent or demi-permanent, delivers the same results as its ammonia-based counterparts. MEA replaces ammonia and works in a similar way physiologically, so coverage, tone, vibrancy, and intended longevity are all preserved.

Is ammonia-free permanent hair color really permanent?

Yes. Ammonia-free permanent hair color is chemically permanent. MEA opens the hair cuticle so color penetrates the cortex and stays until the hair grows out, in a similar way ammonia-based permanent color works. This applies specifically to Radiant Hair Color and Root Perfection. Our demi-permanent hair color, ColorWonder, and semi-permanent Gloss options are ammonia-free too but designed to fade over a set number of washes.

Does ammonia-free permanent hair color cover gray?

Yes. Ammonia-free permanent hair color delivers full gray coverage, the same as traditional ammonia-based permanent color. Because MEA opens the hair cuticle to let color penetrate deeply, gray hairs receive the same coverage they would from an ammonia formula. For resistant grays, Madison Reed's Knockout shades provide maximum-strength coverage. See more about our gray coverage options in the Gray Coverage Guide.

What replaces ammonia in ammonia-free hair dye?

Most ammonia-free formulas use monoethanolamine (MEA), an alkalizing ingredient that lifts the cuticle without ammonia's sharp odor or irritation.

Does hair dye without ammonia still have a smell?

It has far less odor than ammonia-based dye. MEA doesn't carry the same pungent smell, though hair color always has some scent from its other ingredients.

Is ammonia-free hair color safe for the scalp?

Yes, Madison Reed ammonia-free cream hair color is safe for the scalp. Our clinical study, published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, concluded that our ammonia-free Radiant Hair Color was shown to not be damaging to the health of the scalp.*

Can ammonia-free permanent hair color lighten hair?

Yes, within limits. Ammonia-free permanent hair color can typically lighten natural hair up to two levels, though it can't lift hair that's already been colored. For dramatic lightening beyond that range, professional consultation is generally recommended.

 

*According to a dermatologist‑assessed clinical study of 2 dyeing sessions under normal conditions of use where no participants had allergic or irritant contact dermatitis.

 

Originally Published: 10/7/2019

Updated: 8/11/2026